Key concepts
- Olives are stone fruits, like cherries and plums. So real extra virgin olive oil is fresh-squeezed fruit juice – seasonal, perishable, and never better than the first few weeks it was made.
- Bitterness and pungency are usually indicators of an oil’s healthfulness. Sweetness and butteriness are often not.
- There are 700+ different kinds of olives, which make thousands of different kinds of oil. Asking “what’s the best olive oil?” is like asking “what’s the best wine?” The answer is, “depends on what you’re eating it with.”
- Know the when, who, where of your oil: When it was made (harvest date), who made it (specific producer name), and exactly where on the planet they made it.
- Read my book Extra Virginity to understand the bigger picture about where olive oil, great and bad, comes from, and who is making it.
- Like everything on Extravirginity.com, this guide is work in progress, and will be upgraded soon.
Buyer’s guide
- Unlike many wines, which improve with age, extra virgin olive oil is perishable: like all natural fruit juices, its flavor and aroma begin to deteriorate within a few months of milling, a decline that accelerate when the oil is bottled, and really speeds up when the bottle is opened. To get the freshest oil, and cut out middle-men who often muddy olive oil transparency and quality, buy as close to the mill as possible. If you’re lucky enough to live near a mill (in California, but now also Texas, Oregon, Georgia, Arizona and Florida – and of course throughout the Mediterranean, Australia, South Africa and beyond), visit it during the harvest to see how olives are picked, crushed, stirred, and spun into olive oil. I’ve included many profiles of millers and oil makers in the US, the Mediterranean, Australia and elsewhere to be found in my book Extra Virginity, which captures their remarkable craftsmanship and perfectionism despite a day-to-day struggle with fraud.
- If a mill is out of reach, find a store where you can taste olive oils in a range of styles before you buy them, and where the staff can answer a few basic questions about how, where and by whom the oils were made. Specialty olive oil stores and oil bars are becoming more common, and a growing number of delicatessens, markets and supermarkets have an oil bar. Four model institutions are The Olive Press in Sonoma, California; Zingerman’s Deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan; Eataly in Manhattan; and Amphora Nueva in Berkeley, though specialty olive oil stores and oil bars are becoming more common, and a growing number of delicatessens, markets and supermarkets contain an oil bar. Franchise chains like We Olive and Oil and Vinegar need to continue to concentrate on maintaining high quality in their oils, but they do offer a wide selection and often knowledgeable salespeople.
- When you can’t taste the oil first, visit a vendor that performs stringent quality control in their production and selection of oils, such as Zingerman’s or Corti Brothers.
- When choosing bottled oil, prefer dark glass or other containers that protect against light, buy a quantity that you’ll use up quickly, and keep it well sealed in a cool, dark place. Even an excellent oil can rapidly go rancid when left sitting under a half-bottle of air, or in a hot or brightly-lit conditions.
- Don’t pay much attention to the color of an oil. Good oils come in all shades, from vivid green to gold to pale straw, and official tasters actually use colored glasses to avoid prejudicing themselves in favor of greener oils. Both in flavor and aroma, genuine extra virgin oils have, a marked fruitiness reminiscent of fresh olives, and typically have some level of bitterness and pungency (pepperiness at the back of the throat). In great oils these characteristics are harmoniously balanced, together with complex aromas, flavors and aftertastes that bloom gradually on the senses.
- Don’t be put off by bitterness or pungency – remember that these are usually indicators of the presence of healthful antioxidants, anti-inflammatories and other healthful “minor components” of top-quality olive oil – unless one of these characteristics is overwhelming and disproportionate to the others.
- Above all, seek out freshness, choosing oils that smell and taste vibrant and lively, and avoid tastes or odors such as moldy, rancid, cooked, greasy, meaty, metallic and cardboard. Also pay attention to mouthfeel: prefer crisp and clean to flabby, coarse or greasy.
- Labels: If you aren’t able to taste an oil or get help from a knowledgable salesperson, you’ll have to rely on the label for information about the oil. To begin with, be sure your oil is labeled “extra virgin,” since other categories – “pure” or “light” oil, “olive oil,” not to mention “pomace olive oil” – have undergone chemical refinement which strips away olive flavors and many of the oil’s health benefits.
- To ensure freshness, look for bottles with a “best by” date, or better still a date of harvest. Try to buy oils only from this year’s harvest. “Best by” dates are usually two years from the time an oil was bottled, so if you see a date that is two years away, the oil is more likely to be fresh. That said, many olive oils, particularly in the EU, are stored for years before being bottled, yet their “best by” dates are (wrongly) determined by the date of bottling, not of harvest. In fact, most supermarket extra virgins are blends of fresher oil from more recent harvests with flatter oil from earlier harvests. So far, no system has been found to calibrate the “best by” date to the chemical freshness of the oil when it is packed.
- Phrases like “packed in Italy” or “bottled in Italy,” do not mean that the oil was made in Italy, much less that it was made from Italian olives. Italy is one of the world’s major importers of olive oil, much of which originates in Spain, Greece, Tunisia and elsewhere, so don’t be taken in by Italian flags and scenes from the Tuscan countryside on the packaging. Some of the oil imported into italy is consumed by Italians, but much of it is blended, packed and re-exported. Generally speaking, avoid oils whose precise point of production – a specific mill – is not specified on the label.
- Chemical parameters like free fatty acidity (FFA) and peroxides are sometimes mentioned on olive oil bottles. In general terms, FFA indicates the breakdown of the basic fat structure of an oil, whether due to poor-quality fruit (bruising, olive fly infestation, fungal attack) or most commonly, by delays between harvest and extraction of the oil; a low FFA doesn’t guarantee high quality, but high FFA almost always means poor oil. An oil’s peroxide value indicates the extent to which a young oil has been oxidized, typically through breakdown by free radicals or by exposure to light. The levels set by the IOC and EU (and followed recently by the USDA) for the extra virgin grade – 0.8% FFA and a peroxide value of less than 20 milliequivalents per kilo – are by no means stringent enough to guarantee good oil, which frequently has 0.2 percent or lower FFA and peroxides at well below 10 meq/kg.
- An oil’s polyphenol content contributes significantly to its antioxidant properties, and is therefore an important indicator of a range of health-giving characteristics, taste qualities, and shelf life (polyphenols work to preserve the oil as well as the bodies of those who consume it). The IOC recently approved a method of measuring an oil’s polyphenol content, so this indicator may become increasingly common on olive oil labels. At least in health terms, the higher the rating, the better, with numbers below 300 being low, and above 500 being high – though the latter can be too bitter, peppery or both for many consumers. (Some oils rate as high as 800 in polyphenols.)
- Though not always a guarantee of quality, several certifications mentioned on olive oil labels can provide a level of confidence that an oil has been properly made.
- Look for PDO and PGI certification. PDO is the acronym for “Protected Designation of Origin” (“DOP” in Italian), a legal definition, similar to the Appellation d’origine contrôlée designation in French wines, for foods (including extra virgin olive oil) that are produced or processed in a specific region using traditional production methods. (PGI, or “Protected Geographical Indication” (“IGP” in Italian) is a similar though less stringent designation. The production process of PDO and PGI oils is laid down by a specific protocol and overseen by a quality control committee, which further helps to maintain the quality of the oil. PDO status is legally binding within the EU, and is gradually being extended to areas outside the European Union via bilateral agreements
- Olive oils certified by national and state olive oil associations, such as the Australian Olive Association, the California Olive Oil Council and the Association 3E. The North American Olive Oil Association and the International Olive Oil Council also run certification programs, though I personally think their standards should be improved.
- Organically grown
- Oils that scored well in recent, reputable olive oil contests are often a good choice, especially when the oil you are buying is from the same harvest as the oil that won the award (and not, say, from a decade earlier). Leading olive oil contests include:
- For information on some of the more prominent olive oil competitions around the world, see the competition list of the Olive Oil Times and the Olive Oil Source.
- Start noticing the cultivars (ie the varieties) of olives that are used to make the oils you like best, as you do the grape varietals of your favorite wines. There are 700+ different kinds of olives in the world!
- Certain terms commonly used on olive oil labels are anachronistic, and sometimes indicate that the producer is paying more attention to the image of an oil than what’s actually inside the bottle. Take the terms “first pressed” and “cold pressed,” for example. Since most extra virgin oil nowadays is made with centrifuges, it isn’t “pressed” at all, and all true extra virgin comes exclusively from the first pressing of the olive paste. EU regulations state that “cold pressed” can be used only when the olive paste is kept at or below 27º C during the malaxing process – a level respected by nearly all serious producers-and when the oil is actually extracted with a press, not a centrifuge.
- Unfiltered oil and filtration: Some consumers view unfiltered olive oil, with tiny bits of olive pulp and skin floating in it, as more authentic and flavorful. Improper or excessive filtration can attenuate certain flavors and aromas, and many producers of fine oil prefer simply to rack their fresh-pressed oil repeatedly, removing sediment, rather than to filter it. However, other top oil-makers swear by filtration, which can significantly increase an oil’s shelf life. In either case, be on the lookout for a layer of sediment at the bottom of the bottle, which often spoils faster than the oil itself, and can produce the taste flaw of muddy sediment.
- As you would with a wine, choose a style of oil that fits the role it will play in your meals. Pick a powerful oil – variously described as “robust,” “early harvest” or “full-bodied” – to accompany foods with strong or distinctive flavors, such as pepper steak; bruschetta or fett’unta (toasted bread with oil and salt, often rubbed with garlic; fresh, flavorful vegetables like arugula; or to drizzle over vanilla ice cream (try it before you scoff!)). Choose a milder oil – often called “mild,” “delicate fruit,” or “late harvest”- for foods like fish, chicken or potatoes.
- Olive oils are also flavored with a range of fruit, vegetable and other extracts; some of the most popular are made with lemons, blood oranges and other citrus fruits. While many olive oil cognoscenti (and most Europeans) turn up their noses at these oils, they have a wide following in North America and Down Under. The best are made by crushing whole fruit or peels together with the olives, a process called agrumato. Make sure that the base oil flavor isn’t rancid, and that the flavoring itself is fresh and not artificial tasting.
- Avoid bargain prices, because producing genuine extra virgin oil is expensive. Though high prices don’t guarantee great oil, low prices – under about US$10 for a liter – strongly suggest that the oil you’re buying is inferior. Having stated these general guidelines, it’s worth considering two potential exceptions. First, new mechanized methods of olive growing and harvesting (such as super-high-density cultivation) are reducing production costs, Allowing excellent oils to be made at lower prices than with traditional methods. Second, government subsidies to olive growers and oil makers in the European Union and elsewhere allow subsidized producers to charge far lower retail prices for their oils than producers in the US and Australia, where no subsidies exist.
- Once you’ve bought your oil, store it in a place where it is protected from light, heat and oxygen, the three enemies of good oil, which speed spoilage. And don’t hoard it! Even great oils deteriorate with each passing day, and will all too soon become ordinary, even rancid, if not used quickly.
- There is a great deal of disagreement, and a fair bit of misinformation, concerning whether to use extra virgin olive oil, rather than refined (“pure,” “light”) olive oil for frying. Quality extra virgin olive oil is a fine choice for sautéing and shallow frying, so long as its flavor doesn’t overpower the food; an aggressive early-harvest oil would be a poor choice to saute fish, for example. Using extra virgin olive oil for deep-fat frying at higher temperatures is uneconomical, and can even be counter-productive, because the cooking process can accentuate the harsh flavors in the oil, and many of the flavors and aromas of fine oils will volatilize and disappear. Refined olive oil is probably a better choice for deep-fat frying, though there are undoubtedly many extra virgin olive oils that hold up well to frying – the lower an oil’s free fatty acidity, the higher its smoke-point (the temperature at which it begins to smoke, producing unpleasant and unhealthful byproducts), and the more times it can be re-used. (Each time the oil is heated its acidity rises, meaning that its smoke point will and quality will both decline.)
- Depending on their composition, most oils harden when chilled to around 3 degrees Celsius. As they cool, a waxy sediment settles out of them. Freezing does not harm an oil – in fact, it is a good method of preservation – but may reduce its shelf life if substantial sediment is produced. The idea that the freezing point of an oil indicates whether an oil is adulterated is a myth. For more details see the excellent précis here.
Web resources further information on extra virgin olive oil include the following:
- Olive Oil Times: The best source for daily news from the olive oil world.
- Teatro Naturale in Italian and in English (the Italian site is better and more comprehensive): Olive oil news with a European perspective, sometimes taking the side of the larger producers and bottlers.
- UC Davis Olive Center: The new olive oil research center at one of America’s most important agricultural universities, which has an IOC-recognized taste panel, and performs important research into sensory analysis. The UC Davis Olive Center has the potential to become one of the world’s leading voices regarding extra virgin olive oil.
- Olive Oil Source: An excellent and diverse array of resources covering many aspects of olive oil chemistry, tasting, and production.
- Slick Extra Virgin: A highly entertaining and informative blog by Richard Gawel, Australian chemist, oil taster and consultant who is as meticulous about facts as he is caustic about slippery behavior in oil. Gawel also sells an ingenious plasticized wheel containing the terminology used in oil tasting, which is a convenient reference tool.
- CalAthena: Smart, savvy, commonsense wisdom about olive oil from Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne, a California-based olive oil consultant and quality activist.
- Australian Olive Association: The trade association of the Australian olive oil industry, whose stress on olive growing and oil-making skills as well as innovative chemical testing has pushed the envelope of olive oil quality throughout the world.
- ONAOO: A good site, in Italian and English, by one of the world’s pioneering olive oil sensory analysis groups, the National Organization of Olive Oil Tasters, located in Imperia, Italy.
- Modern Olives: One of the world’s premier laboratories for the chemical and sensory analysis of olive oil, based in Jeelong, Victoria.
- Olive Oil Testing Service, Leading olive oil chemical and sensory testing laboratory based in Wagga Wagga, New South Wales, Australia.
- California Olive Oil Council: The leading association of olive growers and oil producers in America, which compiles a list of certified oil producers and offers a range of other useful information.
- North American Olive Oil Association: The trade association of the olive oil industry in the United States, which runs quality tests and a certification program, and recently encouraged the USDA to upgrade its trade standard for olive oil to meet international norms.
- The Olive Press: the slick website of the equally slick Sonoma oil mill and shop. Partners Ed Stolman and Deborah Rogers, leading lights of olive oil in America, are profiled in Extra Virginity.
- Merum: The superb, opinionated by highly informed website of Andreas März, which considers a wide range of Italian oils and wines (in German).
- Zingermans: One of the best selections of olive oils – and a great many other exotic foods – available by mail-order in America.
- Harold McGee: Journeys through the science of food, including olive oil, led by a world authority in the chemistry of food and cooking.
- Association 3E: A perceptive look at both the philosophical and the pragmatic aspects of quality in olive oil, and an introduction to “super-premium olive oil,” which 3E proposes as a new designation for top-quality oil, to replace the now meaningless adjective of “extra virgin”. Featured in Extra Virginity.
- International Olive Council: The historic intergovernmental olive oil body representing growers in countries around the Mediterranean, whose tasting protocol helped create the modern definition of extravirgin.
- Corporazione Mastri Oleari: An authoritative group of top extra virgin olive oil producers (in Italian). The organization and its corageous head, Flavio Zaramella, are profiled in Extra Virginity.
- Veronica Foods: A high quality source for olive oil for a growing number of specialty stores across America, as well as its own outlet, Amphora Nueva in Berkeley, California.
- Marco Oreggia: An independent olive oil taster who writes one of the more important yearly guides to top olive oils worldwide (in Italian and English).
- UCCE Sonoma: High-class technical resources for olive growers and millers.
- Slow Food: The global food NGO offers important information on top oils and oil producers, and compiles a yearly guidebook (in Italian) that is required reading for oil aficionados.
- Gambero Rosso: A leading Italian wine and food association whose new guide to italian extra virgins, updated each year, is a useful reference.
- CHOICE magazine – Australia’s premier consumer magazine, which publishes regular surveys of olive oil quality in Australian stores.
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72 Comments
#067 : December 16, 2011
Goya Extra Virgin was rated highly is taste test competition by Consumers Report. Is that good option?
Can anyone recommend a good olive oil shop in the Washington, DC area?
#228 : January 2, 2012
I’ve used Goya for years for cooking (rather than salads). ti is flavorful and very reasonably priced. However after reading the book I started to wonder about this oil – I would love to hear what others say about Goya EVO.
#612 : February 2, 2012
Hello Wanda – I haven’t tried Goya. I do know that the 2004 Consumer Reports study on olive oil found that it passed the test as EVO, though the methodology used in that study wasn’t in line w/ international definitions of the ev grade. Generally speaking, low-price supermarket oils from Spain aren’t great – actually aren’t usually extra virgin at all – but I can’t say for sure in the case of Goya. I’ll put it on my “to investigate” list.
#971 : February 7, 2012
I haven’t yet got my hands on some Goya, but know that it was very favorably reviewed by Consumer Reports in 2002. Mind you, they didn’t actually apply international definitions of “extra virgin” in that review, but seemed to be on the right track (I’m hoping to persuade them to do another, really rigorous review – this would really help raise awareness in N. America).
#1259 : February 10, 2012
Absolutely I can, actually! It’s the only olive oil store I’ve ever been to, and it’s amazing! http://www.ahloveoilandvinegar.com/ It’s in the Shirlington complex in Arlington, VA. Enjoy!!!
#3431 : March 26, 2012
Sapore Oil & Vinegar
Pennsylvania Ave SE
#3543 : March 27, 2012
Olio2go.com – they have a fantastic selection, they are honest about the harvest year (many sites will not list what year the Olive Oil was produced). They do a lot of their own importing and are in the process of opening a store front. Plus their website is really appealing and easy to navigate.
#218 : January 1, 2012
went to an outdoor market in Rochester NY and found freshly pressed olive oil. there was some poured in a dish with little pieces of bread for dipping. i knew the flavor once i had tasted it as there is a particular italian restaurant i go to in the Bronx and it was on the salad. I tried to duplicate the flavor but was unable to and the restaurant did not give me its secret. when i tasted the freshly pressed olive oil it at the market it was as though angels were singing. it was the oil. worth the price.
#362 : January 16, 2012
Hi Norma,
If this is the oil I’m thinking of, it’s probably Cosimano e Ferrari. I sell the same products in Pittsburgh under a different brand name – Olio Fresca (my supplier is the cousin of the proprietor of the Rochester company). I’ve been very pleased with the product (most of which are Californian oils) and am planning a trip there in the spring to take a sensory evaluation course. I’m happy to hear how much you liked what they had there!
#1374 : February 11, 2012
Did you find the olive oil at the Public Market in Rochester? If not where did you find it?
#246 : January 5, 2012
Thanks for all the information. There is so much to learn and be aware of! I have bought my oils from Zingermans in the past, but also found the Olive Oil Emporium (http://www.oliveoilemporium.com) to be a great online store. They are also mail order and ship great oils to both Canada and the US. They have lots of detail on their site about their oils, including harvest dates. Thanks also for the links you give for the many other web resources.
#604 : February 2, 2012
Thanks for this Melissa – I’ll zip over and have a look at the oils at Olive Oil Emporium, and add them to my web resources if things check out.
#291 : January 11, 2012
Great information. But could you list a few supermarket brands that are generally reliable? We don’t have any specialist stores or even a good farmer’s market near us.
#592 : February 2, 2012
You are absolutely right, Pat: a list of generally reliable supermarket oils is a key resource, which I’ll be supplying ASAP. For now, look for California Olive Ranch and Corto Olive, both good oils at very low prices, as well as Kirkland, the Costco store brand. More on this soon, though.
#313 : January 14, 2012
What about Spectrum brand?
#316 : January 14, 2012
I am a novice, so this is on very limited experience. Three friends and I did a taste test using a Costco Kirkland SignatureToscano 2011 harvest, a California Olive Ranch Fresh 2010 harvest, a Trader Joe’s California Estate Arbequina, and a Spectrum Organic Mediterranean Olive Oil.
All four of us agreed they ranked as listed above with the first 3 oils being similar and good for daily use. The Spectrum was dead last and not desirable after tasting the first 3. It was eye opening how “industrial” the Spectrum tasted.
The best value was the Kirkland Signature and next was the Trader Joe’s. I have since seen the California Olive Ranch on sale in the large markets and it is a good value at the sale price.
#582 : February 2, 2012
Hi George – this kind of experiment is precisely what folks need to engage in, to start understanding olive oil. Olive oil is a complex topic, but the concept of fresh, and of olive oil as fresh fruit juice, are fairly straightforward. W/ this in mind, I agree broadly w/ your conclusions. Keep in mind that the California Olive Ranch was a year older than the others you tasted (assuming the Trader Joe’s was 2011 harvest); I’m betting that if it had been this year’s oil you’d have ranked it first, as in my experience it is significantly better than Kirkland. But Kirkland is real extra virgin and an excellent value esp for cooking. Agree totally on Spectrum – a fake extra virgin in my experience.
#584 : February 2, 2012
I just tried Spectrum in PCC, a high-end supermarket in Seattle, both bottled and bulk. The oil I tasted was flat, without any fruitiness, adn with marked rancidity: not extra virgin.
#317 : January 14, 2012
I generally purchase olive oil from Portuguese brands – could you possibly add some to your list of recommendations or reputable sources? Thanks!
#579 : February 2, 2012
Hi Morris: I’m working on a Portuguese list – will add soon! Which brands do you use, and where do you purchase them?
#2075 : February 27, 2012
I usually buy Gallo Extra Virgin / Premium Extra Virgin or Saloio (in the metal tin) from Portuguese supermarkets in my area.
#370 : January 18, 2012
Colavita oil – first cold pressed, in a can or bottle — all proper info on the label — the absolute best. color, fragrance. It is a perfume — just like the book says. It’s also terribly expensive, but so worth it!
#379 : January 19, 2012
Colavita extra virgin olive oil is, I thought, mediocre after trying it several times (purchasing & using several bottles). Per UC Davis test, it’s not extra virgin either, but virgin olive oil, likely adulterated or mixed with inferior oils. See their report: http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu/news-events/news/files/olive%20oil%20final%20071410%20.pdf (or just do a Google/Bing search for UC Davis Olive Oil report.
#569 : February 2, 2012
Luis – I agree that Colavita didn’t make the extra virgin grade, and in my experience isn’t good oil. That said, the UC Davis test didn’t indicate any likelihood of adulteration, just an inferior oil. Fact is, passing off lower-grade, often deodorized, always cheaper-to-produce olive oil as ” extra virgin” does as much damage to honest producers, and to consumers, as selling olive oil cut w/ canola oil. The latter is more dramatic, but the latter, being almost universal in supermarket oils, is at least in retail olive oil far more common, and therefore damaging.
#571 : February 2, 2012
Sorry Patricia, or whatever your name is! Not sure you read my book, or the UC Davis study, but Colavita oil is in my opinion not good oil – not extra virgin, as a matter of fact. This company could make world-class oil if they chose to, but for now, they appear to choose the opposite course.
#1328 : February 11, 2012
I hate to say this, but Tom is right about Colavita. I did my own research and confirmed his findings 100%. I was just like you, I had been using this brand, and thought it was great for salads and most cooking/dipping. However, I poured some into a clear beaker-glass, and there was virtually no smell at all. Then I partook of a small sip, and it just tasted rancid and skanky. But it tasted mostly of nothing at all, no taste of olives or fruitiness.
Tomorrow I am going to some local gourmet shops, to see what types they have available. I also found a place near me that makes their own EEVO, but it’s a bit of a drive.
#431 : January 25, 2012
I am looking to find a “confirmation” that the oil I like to use, meets high ethics according to the information shared in “Extra Virginity”. I am interested and appreciate all feedback.
I have been using “Bariani” Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The label states that it is “Estate Grown, Produced and Bottled by: Bariani Olive Oil, in Sacramento, California. I understand that this oil is considered “raw”.
Thank you.
#483 : January 30, 2012
I was surprised that Mueller doesn’t mention this brand either in his book or his website. It seems like good oil to me. It’s got the date of harvest and production on the bottle. It is sold at farmers markets throughout the Bay Area.
#626 : February 3, 2012
Loved the interview on Fresh Air …bought the book! Switching to a Mediterranean diet on my doctor’s recommendation meant floundering around trying “olive oil”, a lot of which tasted like transmission fluid. You should speak to the Prostate Cancer Research Institute’s meeting next fall as the oncologists try to switch people off a butter/meat/eggs regimen.
#2081 : February 27, 2012
Butter/meat/eggs are actually really good for you, given that they are from a good source, such as grass fed cows, not factory cows who are fed corn, soy and alfalfa (not their natural diet) and develop problems because of it. Fat from healthy animals is good for you.
#2082 : February 27, 2012
Problem is you have to do research to look for a good source. Most of the stuff in supermarkets is crap.
#697 : February 4, 2012
Hello Tom.
), for Mani Bläuel Greek Organic Products. Organic evoo is our speciality, of course.
I’m Italian and work in Greece (i.e.: olive oil runs in my veins…
First of all, many many congratulations. Your guide is fantastic, everything there is to know about olive oil. I would remove from the title the words “in North America”… This is a high-value guide for anywhere in the world!
Just a little point: a few more evoo international competitions could be added, in my opinion, like TerraOlivo, Monocultivar by Gino Celletti, Armonia, Biol, BioFach Olive Oil Bar (the last two specialized in organic evoo).
Thank you very much.
Keep up the good work!
Silvia
#967 : February 7, 2012
Buongiorno Silvia – Many thanks for the kind note. It does sound like olive oil runs in your veins, both culturally and professionally, which makes your comments all the more heartening to me. You are absolutely right: the international competitions you mention are excellent additions to my list, and I’ll add them ASAP – thanks for the suggestions, and I welcome further ideas in the future.
My book will be published by De Agostini in Italy in the near future. No word yet on a publisher in Greece….
All best,
Tom
#1025 : February 7, 2012
I find this all very interesting and enlightening! Are there any store brands (something one could buy at a Whole Foods or other general grocery store) that are considered okay?
#1197 : February 9, 2012
Liz – Following the suggestion of a number of readers, I will soon publish a list of good supermarket oils. For now, I can recommend oils by Oleoestepa, California Olive Ranch, and Corto Olive — all very reasonably priced and first-rate oils. Costco’s store brand “Kirkland” is also worthy of note.
#1228 : February 9, 2012
Whole Foods now carries three organic varietal oils: Koureiniki from Greece (I believe), a Hojiblanca (from Spain), and an Arbequina (from Italy). These are certified organic and they taste great–pungent, fruity, peppery, with the Greek oil being the strongest. I had been using a sweet Lebanese oil which was not organic, but after reading Tom’s original article in the New Yorker and recent interview on NPR, I decided to drop it because of the potential for rancidity.
#1125 : February 8, 2012
It would be helpful, as you’ve suggested, to have a list of “ok” store brands or other, more economical olive oils.
As an example, I’ve come to like the Trader Joe’s “100% Italian President’s Reserve” Extra Virgin Olive Oil for every day use. But at $6 for 33 ounces can it really be 100% Italian olive oil?
There is someone here in Portland, Oregon, who imports oil directly from several Italian olive oil producers — all small scale, and he’s only open a couple of hours, one day a week — but many of them are quite expensive.
I was fascinated by your 2007 New Yorker piece, and am looking forward to the book — in hopes of learning more.
#1201 : February 9, 2012
Hi Brad – Yes, will get a list of “ok” and economical oils together ASAP. I personally have had bad experiences w/ Trader Joe’s oils, though I can’t swear any were the “President’s Reserve” you mention. I’ll put this on my list to check out. Could I have the name of that importer in Portland? I’ll be going there in the near future, and could visit him (if I can catch him in the office!)
#1255 : February 10, 2012
Thanks, Tom, in advance for the lists to come.
The Portland importer is Jim Dixon, and his occasionally updated web site is http://realgoodfood.com/
He sells his olive oil, and vinegar, sea salt and other things, Mondays between 5:00 and 7:00, in inner SE Portland. Details, location and contact information are on the site.
Again, thanks.
#1337 : February 11, 2012
Brad
There are two stores in Portland called Benessere Oils and Vinegars.
Located at SW 9th Ave and the other located at NE Broadway I believe.
There you can try wonderful olive oils from all over the world plus some of the most amazing balsamic vinegars ! The best part is that you can try before you buy. The staff is unbelievably knowledgeable and so helpful. I learned more about olive oil in less than 20 minutes than I’ve learned up until the time I walked through the door. Best of luck to you.
Sue
#1132 : February 9, 2012
Hi Tom i was wondering if you can recommend any good EVO that can be found in Canada. Maybe something sold at Whole Foods or if you are familiar with any other reputable retailers.
Thanks
#1200 : February 9, 2012
Marco — A very preliminary list of places in Canada is contained in my list of great oils – scroll down to Canada. Readers have quite rightly pointed out that I don’t mention anything in Toronto or Montreal, which is clearly a sign that I have a lot more research to do! More info coming as soon as I can manage it.
#2199 : March 1, 2012
Can you please give me some name and address where i can purchase american extra vergin olive oil in Toronto,Canada. thank you, Paul
#1210 : February 9, 2012
We are a genuine olive oil mill select Italian, and this allows us, thanks to the techniques of processing (severe cold) to extract oil rich in polyphenols, which reflects the intrinsic taste of an olive oil eccellente.Possiamo send in your country! for any clarification you can email our contattatarci oleificiotisolibero.it
#1252 : February 10, 2012
What about Pompeii ? Or other cheap Italian supermarket oils, available in the USA?
#1327 : February 11, 2012
Having done a bit more research and reading the study in its entirety, I think I have answered my own question- Virtually all supermarket olive oils are trash. Or 95% of them anyway.
Including Colavita, which I have been using. Today I sampled pure Colavita, which I poured into small, clear, measuring glass. Tom was 100% correct- It was bland, odorless, no olive taste. It tasted kind of skanky and I could taste some weird “refined oil taste.” It tasted no better than those giant cans of Berrio Olive Oil, but at least Berrio is honest, and label theirs as “Pure Olive Oil.”
The color was attractive, but that could be easily faked. It could be this oil is just old, light or heat damaged. But I highly suspect some hocus-pocus going on. It did not taste right at all for a EVOO. I plan to use only “boutique” olive oils from now on. Oils where I can track their purity and pedigree. I don’t care if I have to pay four times as much either! Olive Oil is a major component of my diet and healthy living plan.
#1311 : February 10, 2012
Is there a way to discern if something is authentic? There is a new store in Old Town Fort Collins called the Rocky Mountain Olive Oil Company, where you can taste many different kinds of oil and vinegar. Quite fancy, and it smells good when you walk in…but they have so many special flavors it makes you wonder if they’re covering up some less tasty basic ingredients. http://www.rockymountainoliveoil.com/
#1329 : February 11, 2012
Hey, I just found them on the “Great Olive Oils of the World” tab! That’s good news. I just couldn’t understand why so many flavors had to be added… but I guess that’s consumerism at work
#1378 : February 11, 2012
Do you have any info. on Tehama Gold (Ascolano) organic, “extra”? Purchased from Grain and Salt Society–home of Celtic Sea Salt (in US) now known as “Selina’s Naturally”. The second bottle not as outstanding as the first. $30 plus shpg. for 750ml. Should I check UC Davis for all CA producers? Is it a good idea to decant into small jars and store in the freezer for small households in rural areas?
#1605 : February 15, 2012
My wife and I spent a couple of hours at Nick Sciabica and sons a couple of years ago and we loved their EVOO’s. Here is their website http://www.sciabica.com/ and they are located in Modesto CA. We bought a 3 liter can of their Marsala and a bottle of Sevillano and a Manzanillo Fall harvest. The flavors were fresh and fruity and the Manzanillo had a good bite and wonderful flavor. They will lead you through a tasting seminar if you want.
Tom, have you had a chance to try their olive oil? I would appreciate hearing any comments you may have.
#3251 : March 23, 2012
Hello Byron,
Thank you for your kind words about my family and our olive oil! I would love for Tom to try our our oil too. Hopefully he will have a chance on his next trip to California,
#1734 : February 17, 2012
Have recently tried Olio Carli. Gently fruity with a bit of a peppery burn. Clean. Really has improved my hummus and great on my lentil stew. Does anyone have info on this producer? Now selling to the USA from the Eastern Shore of Maryland…seems to be direct delivery only.
#2049 : February 26, 2012
I would like to know which olive oils contain hazelnut oil, or the reverse, which do not contain hazelnut oil; whichever list is shorter.
I am not concerned about the quality or taste, only the possible allergens.
I consume olive oil to be healthy, not to die from it.
#2098 : February 28, 2012
Should I refrigerate my olive oil? I thought it would keep longer if I did.
#2099 : February 28, 2012
Tonight cooking dinner I happened to use up the very last bit of a bottle of Trader Joe’s organic “extra virgin” 100% Spanish olive oil. Very nice. Then I opened the next bottle of the exact same brand that I had waiting in the fridge. Terrible. Rancid and tasteless — also, I noticed, it didn’t gel under refrigeration as olive oil usually does (doesn’t it?).
Goes to show that quality can differ enormously even in same brand — it’s the batch that counts. “Organic” is not, sadly, a guarantee of quality oil. I’ve purchased other organic brands at local natural grocers that I’ve had to return because they were rancid-tasting. Sigh.
I live in NW Sonoma County, California, where there are indeed a few olive producers. Some neighbors make a lovely oil that they sell for about $32 a tiny bottle (pint? or less). Way out of my price range. What’s a low income cook to do?
Thanks for this web site. I’ll look for your new book.
#2201 : March 1, 2012
Update:
After returning the rancid TJ organic olive oil, I hunted in three different grocery stores, looked at dozens of brands, and found only ONE with a bottling date on it, which was two years past and the most expensive of the lot (I didn’t get it).
I purchased two different organic brands: Lucini Italia (pretty pricy, but carried a label of recommendation by Dr. Andrew Weil, which reassured me of its high quality); and Napa Valley Naturals.
When I got them home and opened, they were both rancid! Smelled and tasted like furniture polish. Hard to believe, but true. I can’t find a decent olive oil. Beyond frustrating.
#2100 : February 28, 2012
PEOPLE ARE PUTTING BETTER OIL IN CARS THAN THEIR BODIES
We are the producers of Louianna Organic DOP Extra Virgin Olive Oil and it is pure and NOT cut. Louianna is produced from Molise Italy just south east of Rome overlooking the adriatic sea. The climate in this area is perfect for organic olive oil production, not to hot and not to cold and most important no industry mainly agriculture. For all consumers here are some tips from me on buying pure olive oil:
1. buy from small producers
2. Look for DOP (protected designation of Orgin) certificate by EU to protect against unfair compititon (fakes) also eliminates the genetically modified olive production IE, new genetically modified trees are easy to pick but NOT the same as old varieties.
3.And Buy; Certified Organic. When product is certified organic there are more eyes on the product during production. Being a producer we have to have our soil tested & olives tested by government officals and the product must be pressed in certified organic frantoio’s.
4. Buy from producers that you can actually pick up the phone call them and ask them questions.
5. Learn by taste testing cheep $5 1L bottle oils with $25 500ml bottles and think to yourself why the price difference.
Call me if you have any questions about Louianna or how to pick an olive oil
(416)671-6546 Dominic Spedaliere
#2101 : February 28, 2012
Marco – check out http://www.louianna.com our product is available at Longos, pusateris, Highland farms and many other shops in the GTA.
#2108 : February 28, 2012
Thanks for the informative article.
I’m curious as to your opinion of Middle Eastern olive oils, of which there seems to be no mention here. Many of them are quite nice, especially those coming from some areas of Lebanon.
Could you comment on them at all?
Thanks!
#2114 : February 28, 2012
Very informative. Posting link on my FB page as I think people should be aware of this info. I would like to know how Argentine olive oil stacks up though. It seems you can get pretty good oil here and it is not all that cheap compared to prices I have seen in Toronto.
#2127 : February 28, 2012
Just wanted to comment on how refreshing it is to read intelligent comments and people being civil to one another. Very rare on the internet.
#2130 : February 29, 2012
Caroline and Mike here is my comment on Middle Eastern and Argentine oil ;
First off for the virgins out there getting there feet wet in the olive oil industry there are more than just Green and Black olives in the world.
There are hundreds of olive varieties of olives in the world. Olive types get their distinctive qualities based on their genetics and the conditions of their origins.
Olive varieties that are grown in Middle East will not survive in other areas in the world and the same goes with olive varieties from the south of Italy such as Sicily wont survive in Tuscany. Each variety has its distinct unique characteristics. Basically comparing olive oil to wine there are many fantastic wines from all around the world and to determine if one is better than the other is ultimately up to your pallet … so get tasting.
However some varieties are better for producing olive oil and some are better for just eating. This is based on how meaty the olive is, how much oil content the olive contains and how the olive oil tastes.
Finally the best is to taste the olive oil and DO YOUR Due Diligence.
When choosing a olive oil and reading a label here are a couple of other points to look for.
1 Acidity. Louianna that we produce comes in at about 0.3% This is the avg number that your looking for. to be EVOO it must be 1% or below so as you can see there is lots of room for people to play with.
2. Look for date that it was produced and BUY FRESH. you want to enjoy the olive oil and there is no better time to enjoy an olive oil than when it is fresh and within the year of being produced. Olive oil is produced every year and one crop.
3. double check who certified it organic.
4. Dont only fall for awards or marketing.
5. Tasting it and knowing what is old or cut is the best.
see ya later and happy tasting
Here is a movie clip on Louianna Organic Olive Oil
http://www.oliveoiltimes.com/videos/louianna-extra-virgin-olive-oil/8773
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8wGWn8PKoc
#2131 : February 29, 2012
I appreciate this information so much and am looking forward to getting my hands on your book. Kirkland has been my go to for a few months as it is budget friendly and I use olive oil in a lot of my bread making, so I am relieved to see that it is a true virgin oil. I really had no idea what went on behind the olive oil industry and that I had often spent money on a false product. I am going to taste, compare and research my oils better from now on. Thank you Tom!
#2137 : February 29, 2012
Hi, I’m completely new to this, trying to do some research, I’m from Canada, about 100km southwest of Toronto, I’ve come upon a positive mention of Acropolis Olive Oil, their website is short on details. Do you know much about this brand, their background? the prices of their products seem a bit low which raises my suspicions. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.
#2256 : March 2, 2012
First, Thank you for the hard work you’ve done and all that you’ve accomplished in educating us about olive oil. Now, I’m going to ask for more effort – when you have a free moment or two. (Meant with irony!) As one who has asthma, diabetes, osteoporosis, (though not sure that’s on the list of olive oil’s cure-alls) cholesterol issues, high blood pressure, and 2 cancers in the past, I am especially impressed with the effects of polyphenols in olive oil. I have spent a good part of the afternoon trying to identify specific brands of olive oils with high levels of the these chemicals. While partially successful, this information is not uniformly shared. So, now you know what’s coming, a request for oils that are high in polyphenols, or a way of identifying which ones might be. It seems, from what I’ve read, that early pressings are generally the highest, and there may be some correlation between early harvest and the level of antioxidants. True?
Thanks again for any information you have provided or will provide – as a self-proclaimed serious cook and “foodie”, interested in getting the best tasting product, as well as one interested in the health aspects of olive oil.
#2340 : March 5, 2012
Yes, what about Middle Eastern olive oils as Caroline asked. I have been using one from Iran for many years and it is my favorite.
Anne
#2462 : March 7, 2012
I checked the shelves at Whole Foods and found these options:
Nunez De Prado (Spanish <<This is the one I'm most curious about)
Frescobalido Laudemio (Listed on best olive oil page – this was close to exp)
Lapas (Greek)
Montebello (organic italian)
Olivista
Nazareth (Israeli – i think this has already been commented on?)
Interrupcion (Argentina)
Any thoughts?
#2539 : March 8, 2012
Tom, thanks for your great “evangelical” work on olive oil, one of the great treasures of the planet. Recently a Fairway Market opened in my neighborhood, and it was an enormous joy to find out that they had a fully arrayed olive oil tasting bar, with about 20 different EVOOs from Italy, Spain, Greece, USA, even Australia. All with their own label “Fairway.” So I have had a great time tasting the different offerings, and have become a fan of their EVOO. BTW, at least 25% of their oils are labeled “organic.”
Amazingly their house brands start at about $10 a liter to about $30 for the most expensive, and to my non-professional taste, they are all good. Their EVOO selections are managed at the corporate level by a fellow named Steve Jenkins.
http://www.fairwaymarket.com/evoo/
I wonder if you have ever been to a Fairway Market and had a chance to inspect and sample their wares. Would love to hear your opinion.
#3022 : March 19, 2012
1. i am told not to cook with unfiltered olive oil and leave it for salad dressings. I was told to use barioni by a raw chef but i find the flavor overpowering. what are your thoughts on cooking with filtered vs unfiltered.
2. i want to make my own mayonnaise but refuse to use canola. can you recommend a quality evoo that won’t overpower the condiment?
3. which oil do you use to neutralize arugula?
#4162 : April 8, 2012
Kudos to Tom on the book, which I just finished and really enjoyed. When I lived in S. America for many years, two of the more popular EVOOs were Carbonell (Spanish) and Gallo (Portuguese). I’ve continud to use Carbonell here, which I find at COSTCO (2lts./$9.99) but think I’ll be switching to Kirkland after seeing the results of the UC Davis tests on supermarket EVOOs .
To obtain the necessary industry changes, consumer education is key. Thanks Tom.
#5224 : April 26, 2012
Hi Tom,
I heard you on NPR awhile back and couldn’t wait to start reading Extra Virginity. Just finished reading the book and loved it! After looking into the guide, I was very happy to see that a specialty store I regularly get olive oils from is supplied by Veronica Foods!
I live outside of Phoenix, AZ. I’ve been to the Queen Creek Olive Mill in Queen Creek, AZ and often see them selling oils at farmer’s markets. I looked through some of the resources listed here and didn’t see anything about the Mill and its products. Have you had a chance to read about and/or sample some of their products? I’d love to support a local company but do want to ensure I’m buying a quality product.
#5957 : May 10, 2012
The entire business of EVOO is very interesting as my family operates a small restaurant. I have attempted over the years to find excellent olive oil and have had a difficult time. Thank you for writing your book it is an immense help in locating the oil that we are looking for.
Purchased some Corto EVOO received it today and very happy with it. The producer also grows and packs the tomatoes that we use to make our sauce with and that product is excellent also.
I will also be addressing the extra virgin olive oil situation in the foodservice courses that I teach locally. By teaching the next generation of foodservice workers the difference between the good and bad oils will go a long way in helping the cause